Flight TG 986, Christmas Day, 2000. Spotted a supermullet at the checkin counter - big Elvisy bits in front, long straggley rat-tail tied in a pony tail at the back. Rach took a photo of him by pretending to take a photo of me.

I have the best shoes in the world.

2:30pm, Bangkok time. Meals look good, don't know about the vegie. We asked how to say 'thank you' and got something that sounds nothing like the guidebook version - ka phun ka, or something. Rachel's already nearly lost an eye on the swizzle toothpick in her g&t.

3:40pm, Bangkok time. I just realised how big the planes on those electonic maps are compared to the countries you're travelling over, and for some reason, this is very hilarious. Nothing at all to do with the many drinks we've been swilling. If wingspan is about as wide as Australia, why is my seat so cramped?

Some stupid movie about a chimp that does stuff is playing now. Rach and I were trying to decide if it was a short (ok, we were hoping it was), and Rach decided that it must be a feature movie on the basic of the credit music was still going on. Great theory, except that she was listening to the wrong channel.

5:10pm The chimp in the stupid movie has a mullet too.

12:22am, Sawasdee Bangkok Inn. The ride from the airport was cool - there's a strange beauty to things glimpsed from a freeway at night. Concrete pylons for a freeway extension look like temples to an alien god, farm machinery in a showyard are a line of praying mantis.

Looping around and above quiet flats, we pass utes with twelve men riding in the back; then we're down in the market street, stalls I can't imagine yet cover the footpath. It's the middle of the night but no-one seems to mind. Guys playing soccer in a side-street send their friend across four lane of traffic to retrieve the ball.

I can tell we're getting nearer the hotel when I see the first white couple and the stalls are replaced by bars and net cafes. The 7ev (they have 7-11's) has plastic cafe-style tables on the pavement outside. As it turns out, we're not so near the (right) hotel but the taxi driver wasn't too fussed about his mistake and we did a big loop through the one-way streets to the top of Khao San Rd. The cabbie said he couldn't go down it so we got out and walked. We weren't really sure where we were going cos the hotel we'd found on the net (more on that later!) had two different locations on different maps, but the good old 'fuck off' vibes kept the touts away, despite the backpacks and the pallour of my skin.

So - the internet, and hotel bookings: my faith has been shaken. This place certainly isn't what we expected, the doof off the back street makes it as noisy as all the places I imagined we were avoiding would be, we could only get a room with a (teeny tiny) double bed, and the stairwell smells of urine - half human, half cat, but not really either. At least the air conditioner works and we have our own bathroom.

We're in the bar downstairs, there's a net cafe and I keep obsessing about emailing Fraser, but don't cos that would just be pathetic.

A beer has taken the edge off my sting of disappointment over the hotel - we should just take this as a lesson in what good photo cropping can do.

The rest of the flight was ok, neverending as they tend to be, but the second movie was 'Bring it on' - woohoo! I had a feeling it would be, so I hadn't seen it at the cinema. I think I outed myself away by going 'woohoo' aloud when I realised what was playing.

It still seems weird that we're here, especially since Khao San Rd is more backpacker trap than Thai. We're off now to find bottled water so we can brush our teeth.

2am, Khao San Rd Family Mart chick playing guitar on the road with friends. Beers (140 baht!) at cafe, security guard who looks like a cop but just gets to carry chairs around and look tough.

Everyone in Thailand has a uniform!

26/12/00. Gullivers, Khao San Rd, Bangkok. Dickhead travellers.

Rachel, reading guide to Thai cinema listings:
"Thai, Chinese, Indian, Western... do they still make Westerns these days?"
I look at her.
"Oh."

Played table soccer, immediately two guys were offering us a game of doubles, but I said thanks, but it's a grudge match. Then this other guy spent the whole game staring at us. Perhaps table soccer has a whole different 'come pick us up' meaning when you're travelling.

Menu in bar in Rathasdfasdf Th.[Rach, I need to get the LP off you to get street names right!] - Deep Fried Prawn's Ball 70 baht. If I'd written down every funny menu misspelling I wouldn't have any time for travelling, but just remember to stay away from the Bloody Marry's. Yes, I'm easily amused.

Yummy meal at Pratha's Place, Rachel the Adventurous had pad thai. Booked train back from Chiang Mai then down to Ko Pagnan.

Ferry ride down and back up the Chao Praya River. Quick cruise through the market and yet another 7ev.

One of the chicks who works in this bar has a tiny fluffy rabbit that keeps trying to jump off the bar.

Dali, 11pm. Unintentional sign in toilet "Don't drop anything in the loo or the boggie man will get you".

9:20 am, 27/12 Tarmac, Bangkok Airport Domestic Terminal. We are going to die. The plane to Chiang Mai is a two-propeller affair. However, the manic Christmas carols they're playing make death seem a preferable alternative.

Catch up: last night - Rach fell down outside Gulliver's. I'm a big meanie cos I laughed til I almost fell over myself. Some English guy was on the phone to his friend, and when we walked passed, he said his friend was laughing too. More table soccer and more drinks, though we probably didn't need them.

3:30pm, Hash House Pub, Chiang Mai. Early morning, lazy afternoon. Up at 6:15 to have a shower and be in the lobby by 6:30 for the airport bus. Really grumpy and tired cos I didn't get to sleep until late.

Airport bus did the usual run-around to other guesthouses. I always like it cos you get to check out other areas but I could do without the cramming. Then out into the peak hour traffic. Annoying women (lesbians, or German ladies?) didn't shut up the whole way. Usual hair-raising traffic, with a new addition - I've never been blocked on the tracks of an oncoming train before by traffic that wasn't going to move for anyone before.

Then we trekked through .5k of tunnels to the domestic terminal in order to eventually sit on the tarmac in a dinky tourist bus and be confronted by the propellers of death.

In the end, a smooth ride to Sukhothai, despite the neverending carols. Chick pilot, which was nice. Sukhothai has a gorgeous airport, but disaster struck us there - Rach lost the wallet that had our passports and all our air and train tickets.

(Terrorist in the gardens at Sukhothai).

We were in an open bus thing, waiting for the plane to be refuelled (that's how small it was!) at Sukhothai when we realised. Back on the plane, told the flight assistants. Checked seats, checked bags, double checked, checked again. Nothing had been handed in. Took off for Chiang Mai still not knowing where it was. Tried to work out exactly what was in it in case it didn't turn up. Eventually it was handed in by someone, it had slid down the back of the plane after Rach dropped it. Met at the airport by a woman from the guesthouse, which is nice enough, pool and bar, and the room seems decent and clean.

Lunch at Aum vegie place. Cooking course tomorrow. River cafes and night market tonight. Got to organise bus to Pai today but I've had a beer and now I'm feeling lazy. Taksim is in the news - totally busted for undeclared assets.

Second mixed male/female toilet with stalls and urinals - it doesn't seem very Thai, I'll have to check if it happens in non-farang places.

8:54pm Good View After a swim, we asked the reception staff where the cinemas were, experimented with bargaining with a tuk-tuk driver, and arrived just in time to see Charlie's Angels. I was really curious after hearing that Thais stand up when the national anthem and pictures of the king are played before the movie, and I was worried that we'd missed it cos the previews had already started. But we hadn't, so yay! I got to see it. He has bloody good marketing people, it was a really emotive slideshow thingy that almost made me feel proud, and I can't even spell the king's name. Then we settled down for a good perve on Charlie's Angels. Mmm, Lucy Liu. Cameron Diaz used to be cute but I'd rather send her out for a decent meal than perve on her these days.

3:47pm, 29/12/00 Pai. Tunva Restaurant. Another early start. Up at 8 to go to the bus station and catch the bus to Pai. Got there just after 9, the 9:30 bus is actually the 9am bus, the next one was at 10 so we went for a walk to get some food and a paper. Ended up grabbing a terrible instant 'coffee', no wonder Red Bull is so popular here. When we got back to the terminal the bus was already there, and full.

It turned out it wasn't the 10:30, but another, and that the 10:30 would still be coming. So we stayed on the edge of the bay to wait for it. A farang guy who'd been around earlier came up when we were looking to see if the bus really was full and we chatted to him while we waited for the next bus.

We watched a lot of other farang line up at the ticket window and didn't bother telling them they could only buy their ticket on the bus, assuming they were also going to Pai but not really caring.

Once they'd gotten to the head of the queue and realised that they had to buy their tickets on the bus, they ended up kinda hovering around us. After a while, an old Thai guy who'd been watching us for a while came over to see if we wanted to hire a songtheow to Pai. People tried to bargain him down to about the price of the bus but he wasn't giving in. A few more farang came over to check it out and we ended up with nine. Eventually, a rough price was agreed on, and we trudged over to the songtheow, where some more bargaining took place. I know that when you've been travelling for a while, every cent counts, but these people were bargaining to the point of rudeness for 50 cents for a ride that was a lot more comfortable than the local bus (these things are relative, in this case, the local bus crammed a lot into a tiny space). It's not even as if any of them were travelling on Australian dollars - the yanks were the most obsessive, followed by the English.

So then we had to wait for ages while the old guy tried to see if he could get any more passengers. Eventually he got two Korean girls who sat in front, and off we went.

Made good time, got to Pai in three hours (an hour faster than the bus). One loud American sitting down the other end could be heard over the engine and other noise, so I got to hear about his hill-tribe trek. I'm sorry to any Americans reading this, but Californian accents make even the most reasonable person sound dumb, and it doesn't help that the majority of people say stupid things the majority of time.

Usual hair-raising bits - overtaking on blind hairpin bends, mad braking and swerving to stop us going over the edge of the mountain. We actually left tyre marks behind, so I guess it was scarier than Turkey.

The mountain scenery was beautiful. I never thought the whole 'share a trip with other travellers' thing would work, being so shy and all, but it did.

Most of the people went to eat at a place near the bus stop but we went to find somewhere to stay. Probably just as well cos we got the last hut at any of the lodges on the river.

Dumped stuff, went for a walk, ate, (excellent food at the place I started this entry, now I'm writing this in the restaurant by the river, sat and wrote more by the river, went for a walk to get mossie coils and stuff, checked out some of the shops, back to grab torches and malaria tablets, down here to eat. Been waiting ages for our food, it's all Thais here so maybe their orders are going through first, but surely they can't be anti-farang cos their menu has English as well. [Later on we encountered places that wouldn't serve us at all - they'd say they had no rice and no noodles! or that they were closed, so I think this place was just forgetful cos Thais don't seem to have any shame in telling you to piss off if they don't want to serve you].

Diners use the toilet of the guesthouse next door, I'm not sure if there are prostitutes working down here - there's a 'use a condom' poster in the women's toilet. There's no bin for toilet paper so I guess they're not expecting many foreigners.

Cooking school yesterday - Astrid, Bob, Tarique, Rachel and I. Tarique mentioned inviting Rach and I to dinner with him and his wife really early on, but we weren't sure if he meant it. In the end, we ate so much that dinner wasn't an option (except for me, but I didn't want to say so), but we had drinks with him and his wife Shilpa last night. We ran into Bob while we were waiting to be picked up by Tarique and Shilpa so he came too. We had drinks at one of the places on the river. I made the mistake of ordering the fairly greasy vegie spring rolls.

It's 8:32, we've been here since 7, and watched three groups of Thais who came in before us order, eat and go. If we finish these beers before the the food comes we'll just pay for the beers and go somewhere else. The guy at the table behind us keeps snorting his snot back up his nose, and I wince every time he does it. His daughters were playing clapping games before which were an odd mix of traditional sounding songs and contemporary references, which was just interesting enough to stop me from killing him.

Bad jokes that pay off: when we were walking around the town before, Rachel said, 'look, temple!' and I said 'wat!', just to shit her, and she said 'temp...' before she realised. Score!

Bad jokes that probably don't pay off: tomorrow we're going to hold hold a Uno card we made up in front of a temple so we can say 'uno wat?'. I am the queen of bad puns.

Rachel's food has arrived. Woohoo!

30/12/00, 8:37pm, Chez Swan,. Sore bum, but a great day, a big scare notwithstanding. Rach left this notebook and a roll of film behind at the restaurant we were at today, and I was pretty devastated. Luckily, it turned up at the cafe we'd eaten and read the papers at after the elephant ride.

We're at Pai's French restaurant. There's an Irish pub called 'Tha-Irish' but it's not open at the moment.

Not much sleep last night (this morning), lots of noise.

6am - those bloody electioneering vans! Driving around with their music and recorded speeches, and cheesy candidate photos. Today we heard one playing the theme from Indiana Jones.
7am - a neighbours radio.
9am - Soccer game at the high school next door - lots of cheering. And for some reason, I woke up at 4-something am, I think I've done that most nights we've been here. Surely it can't be because it's 8-something am at home and I'd be waking up for work then? (Well, possibly, but stop calling me Shirley!).

We didn't think we had time for breakfast this morning - elephants to see, and all, so we got yoghurt and peanut brittle and stuff.

9:48pm Tha-Irish. It's open! Full of farang, of course, and the music is early Bob Marley and the Wailers. I'm sure everyone is Irish or Australian or English, but they're pretty friendly - running a pool on the soccer, and invited us to join.

The French meal was good - Rach had never had French before, so we had to do it. I had gratin dauphinois, Rach had chicken skewers. I had a damn fine Punch Pai, featuring Thai whiskey, grenadine and fruit juices. Off to the Latino bar after this beer, for a completely surreal 'rural Thailand meets the rest of the world' night.

7:30am, 31/12/00 Terrace, Pai River Lodging. The mountain is still covered in mist. I'm surprised to see so many people up. The campers I can understand, they must be freezing, but the rest have no excuse.

We're trying to get the first bus back to Chiang Mai and beat the rush. Hopefully not too many people are travelling away from Pai today, there's a doof on up here tonight.

No election candidate vans this morning, thank god. I think Pot, the guy who runs this place with his wife, is up, so we can pay and go now.

There were a bunch of complete wankers in the bar we ended up in last night. The Latino Bar was closed, after our big walk out there, and the pool turned out to be chlorine - for some reason I assumed it would be natural. The stars were beautiful, and it was so odd being out in the middle of nowhere in Thailand instead of Australia that I didn't mind the walk. Saw three shooting stars.

Rach fell down (again! why do I always travel with falling down friends? At least I didn't nearly fall over laughing myself, this time) and hurt her knee on the way.

So we walked back into town and went to one of the places on Blah St (totally got to look the name up) and encountered the bar of wankers. There was the Danish guy, with the American/Aussie/fake uppercrust English accent, who said that he tried to sound English when he could (because it's 'classier'), the girl from Silicon Valley who claimed that she could have made $12m in stock options (and who sounded as stupid as all Californians are doomed to) and the French guy who responded 'what before?' when asked what he'd done before hanging out in Pai for two months. I know travellers (heaven forbid you should call them backpackers) try and outwank each other at every turn - stories of paying less than anyone else on rougher more isolated trips than anyone else are par for the course, but these guys, collectively or individually, went so far beyond any other wankery I've heard that the world would run out of oxygen before they said anything sensible.

9:36pm. Chiang Mai - Bangkok Special Express Happy New Year!

Most of the other sleepers beds have been put up and I'm not sure how long we can hold out.

Up early (again!) for the bus from Pai, got two of the last seats on the 8:30am, but we had to figure out to find out which bus it was (hidden behind all the others, of course) and leave our stuff on it, with a person to mind, it by 8am. The ride down the mountain was no good on a sore bum from the elephant ride, plus the bus had the world's smallest ever seats. Luckily my nose was blocked because anytime someone farted, the whole bus copped it. Some of the older Thais seemed to be grabbing sick bags as they got on, which worried me, but I never saw them use them.

It's mostly Thais on the train, a few farang - French, American.

It's a strange way to spend nye, but cool. I wonder if Bangkok has recoveries. We'll be arriving just in time, if so.

7:31am New Year's Day Coffeebucks, Hua Luphong Station, Bangkok The train ride was really comfy, but the food was a rip-off (what a surprise!). We obviously scared the guy who came around with the bill enough that he brought reinforcements. (I almost considered not paying cos the 'vegetarian' tom yum had a bit of chicken floating in it, but it wasn't worth the hassle when we still had hours to go on the train.) Sleepers are really fun!

Woke up around 5:30, so we watched the sunrise as we rode into Bangkok. Lots of slums or shanty towns along the tracks as you get closer in. Tried to get an ironic shot of the political posters a lot of them had up - I assume they're paid to put them up. Vote-buying allegations and other dodgy dealings are everywhere this election.

3/1/01 Terrace Cafe, Salaad Resort, Hat Salaad Arrived in Bangkok New Year's Day. I'd woken up at 11, looked at my watch, realised it couldn't be 11am cos it was dark outside, thought 'Happy New Year' and fell asleep again. Woke up for a second at 12:30 and thought 'well, that was that'.

Dumped baggage in the left luggage thing, found the right bus stop after some pissfarting around, got to the Grand Palace/Wat Phra Sing about 8am.

Lots of Thais lining up to sign a book or something in the garden in the complex, and early on, it was mostly Thais praying in the Wat, later there were more farang.

Went to find something to eat before going to the Grand Palace, but it turned out to be a mission in vain. We headed down by the river first, after a walk alongside Saman Luang. Some places just ignored us, one guy said they didn't have an English menu, and when we said that was fine, did they have pad thai or pad see-eu, he said they didn't have any noodles or rice. The one place that seemed aimed at farang seemed too expensive, but that's probably just the difference between Bangkok and the north.

Tiny little lanes down by the river. Found a place that had sarongs for 120 baht, after some talk. Tried to get the places opposite the Grand Palace to come down to the same price, but no go!

After a quick look at the Grand Palace, we tried to find the Royal India so we could have some lunch, but we got lost - we blame the maps. It was really hot and steamy and we were getting really sick of wandering around trying to figure out where we were. Ended up having to go to some terrible 'baguette' chain store in the Old Siam shopping centre. I bought some cheap but damn classy undies cos I was feeling so scungy after travelling from Pai in the same clothes. Tuk-tuk back to the station, ran around finding food to take on the train - it must be the only square kilometre without a 7ev or actual minimart.

In the end, we met a Thai woman who was travelling to visit her mother in Surat Thani. Her daughter was my age, I'm not sure how old she was, but she was a real life old-fashioned gay divorcee. She'd spent new year's eve in the discos at Pattaya, putting us to shame. She knew one of the guys who worked on the train, and we ended up squashed into the seats under a bunk, drinking Singha with Thai whiskey in it, keeping everyone else awake.

Up at 4:30 to get ready for our 5:10 leaving, but we didn't arrive til 7am. That's what you get travelling on Thai time. Bus to the ferry, ferry across to Ko Phangan. Got talking to Phil, who'd been here before, ended up drinking beers (at 10am :), then we had lunch together when we landed. Caught a taxi up to this beach, the place he stayed at last year was full so we walked up the beach to this one.

Generators go off at 11pm so it's pretty quiet at night. There's nowhere else to get food, so it could get a bit expensive.

There was a massive queue of people waiting for a ferry to leave, the weather had been dismal and the New Year's parties were over. We had perfect weather, so we had a good laugh at them.

2:28pm, Jan 4th. Ko Pagnang-Surat Thani ferry.

Our on-board movie: The Perfect Storm.

Yesterday: Dinner at Salad Hut, drinks with Phil and Thorsten. Rach had a massage. We tried to find the waterfall and didn't but got lots of exercise on the way. Overnight train to Bangkok tonight. Really sorry to be leaving Hat Salaat. The town (Thong Salat) is *full* of backpackers, I guess most of them were staying in Hat Rin, so we totally lucked out in the 'no dickhead/wanker' factor at Haad Salaad (I love the way the names had a million and one variations). I just wish we'd known to stay there longer.

7:20am Surit Thani - Bangkok Rapid Sleeper, 5/1/01 Three days to go.

Had an insane dream about interviewing one of the guys from Savage Garden as part of a competition prize. It was only me and the 'gay' one and as much as I hate them, I did it so I could make Fraser's day, but I was really rude to him. I said things like, "have you ever wanted to make serious music?", and when he said "I do make serious music", I said, "oh... ok".

At one point I leaned forward and said, "fag?"

and he said almost jumped out of his chair and squeaked, "WHAT??!?",

and I smirked and pointed to the packet of cigarettes on the table.

1:46am, Sawasdee House, Bangkok. Today: email (finally!), museum, guy who told us about the temple and govt tuk-tuks, silk store hard sell (there as a favour to the guy, who then (faked?) a breakdown - tuk-tuk died mysteriously). Maybe we were meant to go in there and get sucked in and he'd get much more than the coupon he claimed he was after.

Did eat: sashimi, purple carrot juice, green papaya salad.

Didn't eat: fried chicken sinews.

1:12am, 7.1.1 Bangkok Bar, Soi Rambutri All packed and ready to go. Going for carry-on again cos we arrive so late and I'm meant to be back at work the next day.

Today: up late-ish, breakfast at the vegie place on Khao San Rd. (When we were there last night it felt like we'd been there in a dream, not just two weeks ago). Had a vague plan about seeing tradional dance at the National Theatre but it doesn't seem to be open on Sundays. Read the papers over breakfast, just like a normal Sunday, really. 1/2 hour foot massage on the way back. Rach reckons mine was a trannie. They thought we'd just arrived cos my legs are so white. Lots of people do, they try sucker tricks on you they don't on people who look like they've been there for a while. Rachel doesn't believe me about this, but it happened in Turkey, too.

60 baht cocktails at some place down the road, made by the son who looked about 12 but did a damn fine job. Uno Wat photo. Email. Postcards. More cocktails (such a relief after the dry spell of the election!). Dinner at Suba, from Bangkokpost.com. Food good, not as good as I expected, but place was interesting and cheap. Sky train. Looked for Soi 31 again (long walk). Cab back. Packed. Out to spend the last of our baht now. [We'd forgotten about the airport tax!]

Yesterday: (working backwards)

Patpong/Soi 2 - 4 gay bars. Home around 5am. Oriental Terrace, all dressed up. I slept in, breakfast at good place. Massage. No drinks cos of election! But lots of confusion about when you could get one (we popped in here briefly to see if we could). later: no luck at all finding dykey clubs, but met lots of nice gay boys and got to watch people in Patpong. Bought sarong on the way there.

Earlier: Rach shopped in Khao San Rd for the millions of presents she had to bring back for everyone.

2pm AEST. 8.1.1 Somewhere over the Gulf of Thailand, TG993. Rachel left our breakfast and god only knows what else behind in the hotel this morning, so I've spent a couple of hours completely starving, and the airline lunch we've just had didn't help. It also doesn't help that my back started aching about five minutes after sitting down. Checked in 2 hours before the flight and still couldn't get bulkhead or any better seats, the request must've gotten lost in the booking. Stupid internet. I got the usual pain about five minutes after sitting down in the airline seat.

Bus ride out was fun but really cramped.

Last night, decided we might as well kick on through rather than going to bed for an hour or two.

Lots of people watching at Bangkok Bar (next to Sawasdee House, where we were staying, but we were about the only backpackers there until about 3am - a very Q&A kinda crowd, but more straight.), ended up getting involved with the people we were watching. Dickhead English guy was all over these Thai girls we'd been sitting next to. One was pretty flirtacious, but she was the same with everyone, even me. He was just gross, and didn't get her 'piss off now' messages, which were sometimes as blunt as 'ok, go away now'.

At one stage I asked her his name, all the better to make fun of him (we'd been using a made-up name (Bill, as in The Flowerpot Men) to talk about him). She immediately went and said to him, 'that girl wants to know your name' and he was over to try his chances in a dash. I looked at him like he was a freak until he went away.

There's some bar above the police station in Khao San Rd, according to these girls, and they were going there when the Bangkok Bar closed. They tried to convince us to go too but we had about 200 baht left which would barely buy us a beer at club prices.

Ended up wandering around trying to find somewhere to set off our fire crackers. Did one of each, after much deliberation, then back to the guesthouse for one final cocktail before a quick shower and back down for the 5am airport shuttle.

One shortcut through an early morning produce market then back into expressway land, and goodbye Bangkok. On the way to the airport for the flight to Chiang Mai I'd seen the cliched 'monks given alms by Thais' and I was hoping to see it again to show Rach but it was too early.

Right now it all feels very anti-climactic and like we didn't really do much, but I'm sure some sleep in an actual bed and some real food will fix that. I just hope the reality of school and house and work isn't too much.

Things about Thailand:

driving - if you want to do something kinda dangerous - make a tricky turn or overtake, or change two lanes into three, don't wait until the coast is clear in a few seconds, just beep your horn to warn everyone else, and floor it.

The election: if this was the first 'anti-corruption' election, I can't imagine the really corrupt ones. The 'Night of the Howling Dogs' is a terribly romantic way of describing the night before the election when candidate representatives make late night last minute vote buying excursions. The card system reminds me of soccer, except that it's a yellow card for suspected corruption and a red card for proven corruption.

"And all the girls say, pretty thai for a white guy"

Everyone in Thailand has a uniform.

Being refused service in restuarants.

Things I didn't get photos of:

- dogs wearing dresses or shorts and a tshirt, asleep under stalls in the markets.
-whole families - up to three kids, husband and wife, all riding the one Vespa. Vespas being steered by kids barely able to stand, while their parents beam proudly.