Bogaz Loktamtasi, 12:39pm.

The hotel we were staying at turned out to get all the noise of the nearby clubs. It was very, very hot.

We went to a student bar that Abdul had recommended for drinks, where I wrote the entry before last.

Checked out of Hotel Efes and into the one next door - refused a double room cos we had no wedding rings (presumably, anyway). Fraser was asked if we were 'familiar'.

It's hot again today. Having breakfast now, must organise Truva and away soon.

Meeting Abdul (guy from the bus) at the clock tower at 8 tonight for a drink.

People here seem more genuinely friendly - they say hi as you walk down the street without it leading to 'come and see my carpets'.

Very yummy Spanish omelette type-thing on rice, Fraser's dolma not so good. Very much a local's cafe, so we were treated a little like the village fools, but that's ok in context.

Aile Restaurant. 2:22pm

It might seem like we spend a lot of time in cafes, but it's just the best place to stop and catch up.

Apparently it's 44 C which might explain why we're so hot. One beer and it's siesta time, which would be really good except that the guy in the hotel is forbidding enough to be scary.

Oddly enough, there's a word in Turkish for this: Yaramazlastirikimiyabilenlerdenmipsiniz (You seem to be one who is incapable of being naughty).

7/7/2000

Arrived in Bergama. Ate at Meyan Restaurant, went for a walk to look at the Acropolis, me with the idea of re-enacting ancient rites, Fraser with the idea of whinging. Back for a drink at another cafe/pub. One of those guys who hang out like they own the place sent me a plate of cucumbers via the waiter. No idea how to respond or what it meant, but I ate them anyway. Made Fraser eat one in case it was some kind of sexual thing. Travelling makes you suss.

Acropolis in Bergama very cool. Spent most of our time being dickheads. Cab driver was an arsehole who pretended he didn't know what change was when it came time to pay him.

Saw the best TV in the Meyan cafe the night before: horse and cart involved in police chase, televised in full OJ-style glory.